My Mother is fond of telling me, “I’ve taught you everything you know about cooking”. I’m not sure how she reconciles my years of culinary college with that statement, but she did give me the interest and curiosity in the kitchen I needed at a young age.

mom

The best cooks I encounter are those who were welcomed into the kitchen as a child by a parent or grandparent. They quickly made a lasting association between cooking and love, or security, or nutrition, or family, or holiday celebrations. These children were empowered with a “can-do” attitude when it came to preparing food.

With great respect for these mentors, I have to warn you that there are some mom-myths out there about cooking that they probably should never have told you.

1) “Always boil your pasta or rice”.

Actually, “boil” isn’t a cooking method at all. You should never “boil” anything in the kitchen unless there’s been a natural disaster and you have to sanitize your water.

boilThere’s a big difference between boil, simmer, and poach. These are the three moist convective cooking methods. Boil means large violent bubbles at 212f or 100c. The violent motion of the liquid often toughens protein products and can make starches sticky.

Every time you put something in the oven, it’s not at the highest temperature. Why do people think that when you cook in liquid it should be at the highest temperature possible? You must control the heat in moist cooking just like in dry cooking.

A more appropriate way to cook pasta is a proper “simmer”. Simmer is 185f (85c), characterized by small soft bubbles around the edge of the pan and slight movement to the liquid.
It’s a better way to cook pasta.

2) “Add oil to the pasta water and it won’t stick”.

Since we’re speaking of pasta, I can tell you that adding oil to simmering water will never keep pasta from sticking. That’s because the oil is running down your sink drain with the water you’ve poured out.

oilEveryone knows that oil and water don’t mix. Why then, would oil cling to pasta like someone hanging from a cliff when hot water is washing it away?

If you don’t want your pasta to stick, add oil AFTER it’s cooked directly to the pasta. Or, cook to your desired doneness and rinse in cold water to stop the cooking. Then, plunge the pasta quickly in simmering liquid and strain before service. This will have washed away much of the sticky starch.

3) “Leave the frozen steak on the kitchen counter overnight to defrost”.

Some of these things your mother should have never told you are simple oversights. This one could make you very ill.

frozsteak“That’s the way we always did it and nobody ever got sick”, she would retort. The truth of the matter is that our food system was much better in 1960. When I was a kid, we went to the BUTCHER for meat. The fresh cuts were wrapped in brown paper, not Styrofoam and plastic with a blood absorbing pad underneath. The meat itself was safer.

You don’t know how today’s products were handled before they reached your kitchen. Most food borne illnesses are caused by human beings, through dirty hands or cross-contamination. The second biggest cause of people getting sick from food is called “Time and Temperature Abuse”.

The “Temperature Danger Zone” (TDZ) is 41f – 135f (5c – 57c). This is the area on the thermometer at which bacteria grows most quickly. To keep food safe, it should be kept at or below the lower temperature and cooked above the higher temperature.

A steak left to defrost at room-temperature will spend too much time in the TDZ, potentially giving bacteria the opportunity to double every 20 minutes, to a point at which it causes illness. Always defrost items by planning ahead. Move frozen food from the freezer to the refrigerator 24 hours in advance to keep it out of the TDZ.

4) “Cut into the chicken and see if it’s done”.

I’ve seen too many people gash steaks and chicken breasts in an effort to visually verify that the item is cooked. The main problem with this is that you’re letting all the moisture escape. It’s like poking a hole in a hose.

gashThere’s an easier way to quantify your cooking, with a thermometer. It’s the single best investment you can make in your cooking. A thermometer will tell you EXACTLY when something is cooked to a desirable and safe temperature.

Poultry and fish are considered fully cooked and safe at 165f (74c). A quick-read digital thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the item will assure that any part thinner or smaller is at least that temperature.

Steak temperatures are for your desire, but aren’t considered fully safe until 165f (74c). To me, that’s a hockey puck. The steak is over-done at that point. I encourage everyone to use their thermometer and memory to arrive at a personal “steak number”. It’s the temperature of your perfect steak.

My steak number is 128f (53c). I let the beef rest for 5 minutes and carry-over cooking will eventually make it about 132f (55c), the perfect rare to medium I like. Generally, “rare” is 130f (54c), “medium” is 140f (60c), and “well” is 150f (65c).

5) “Cook for 20 minutes”. “Sauté for 3-5 minutes”.

Mom always seemed to be able to tell exactly when something was done cooking by the clock. But there are so many variables in cooking that no two chicken breasts will cook exactly the same, no two asparagus spears or fishes either.

timerCommon sense says that if one chicken breast is twice as thick as a second, the first will take longer to cook. Chickens aren’t manufactured in a factory, they are not of consistent sizes. If food is all different sizes, how can we cook by time?

How hot a stove-top heating element gets is measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs). The more BTUs your burners have, the more quickly it will transfer heat. A household electric coil range with a ceramic glass top will have different size burners, generating from 5000 to 10,000 BTUs. Commercial gas ranges apply heat more quickly and intensely, with elements that produce 15,000 up to 30,000 BTUs.

If the commercial stove will give you three times as much heat, how can you cook by time?

In culinary college, my students often ask me, “Chef, how long should I cook this?” The answer is always the same, “until it’s done.” A better question is, “how do I tell when this is done?” The answer is to quantify your cooking. Learn to identify the signs of cooking on a scientific level.

When a protein product like chicken, beef, or pork reaches 165F (74c), proteins coagulate. That means they stiffen and shrink. The item changes color. At 320f (160c), sugars caramelize. They turn brown and brittle, like toast. This is always the great eye-appeal you’re looking for, or the grill-marks on a steak.

Recognizing these road-markers in cooking, along with your instant read thermometer will tell you exactly when something is done without ever looking at a clock.

kid

Sorry Mom, I’ve grown up and so has my cooking. I love, respect and admire you for introducing me to a great world of food. However, I’ve learned the HOWs and WHYs of cooking since. I’ve asked hundreds of questions, I’ve sought more knowledge to further improve upon what I would never have started without you.



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